In large cities, only the head offices of major
banks (Banco do Brasil, HSBC, Banco Itaú, Banespa) will have an exchange department (ask for
câmbio); whether changing cash, travellers' cheques or making a credit card withdrawal, you'll need your passport, unless you're simply using an ATM. You can also change cash and travellers' cheques in smart hotels and in some large travel agencies. The best rates, however, are usually to be found in a
casa de câmbio , but these only operate on any scale in Rio and São Paulo.
Exchange departments of banks often close early, sometimes at 1pm, although more often at 2pm or 3pm, and it can take up to two hours to complete all the necessary paperwork. Some banks will only change a minimum of $100 per transaction. Airport banks are open seven days a week, others only Monday to Friday. You'll find life much easier if you bring only US dollar banknotes and travellers' cheques . Only in casas de câmbio in Rio and São Paulo will you be able to change other currencies.
Outside large cities it can sometimes be difficult to change money at all, but an ever-increasing number of branches of the Banco do Brasil provide this service. If you get stuck, travel agents or smart hotels are worth a try, though most will only accept dollar banknotes; if they don't buy themselves, they will know who does.
The main credit cards are all now widely accepted in Brazil, even in rural areas. Mastercard and Visa are the most prevalent, with Diners Club and American Express also widespread. Even so, don't expect to rely entirely on cards, as some businesses - even ones you would expect to - don't accept them or accept only a very limited range. And when hotels offer low-season discounts, they may make a condition that the bill is paid with cash. If you do pay by card in a shop which doesn't have an automatic swipe register, the shop will have to use chronically overloaded phone lines to check the balance, which can take an inconvenient amount of time. Note also that Brazilians are quite fussy about your signature matching that on your card.
You can obtain cash advances on all major cards at most bank branches in big cities; in smaller towns only the main branch of Banco do Brasil will do it. Visa is much the easiest card to get a cash advance on. Try to avoid joining the queues for the tellers, but look for a sign saying Cartão or Saques por Cartão; if there aren't any, wave your card at one of the managers behind a desk, and they will point you in the right direction.
Far easier and much faster is to use one of the ever-increasing number of ATMs . Again, Visa cards are the most widely accepted, Mastercard less so. Visa cards can be used at the ATMs of Banco do Brasil and Banco Bradesco; Mastercard at HSBC, Itaú and Banco Mercantil.
You should never rely entirely on credit card withdrawals, however; computers or satellite communications can sometimes be down for days, which can put a hold on all potential credit card transactions for several days at a time.
To change Brazilian currency back into dollars when you leave, you need to show bank exchange receipts to the value of what you want to change. These receipts are called comprovantes, and banks will type one out for you on request when you buy Brazilian currency - casas de câmbio do not issue them.
Exchange rates
You will see two rates being quoted for cash: the oficial, which is what a bank will pay you, and the turismo, which is what you will get in a hotel or travel agency; travellers' cheques have slightly lower rates, even in banks. The turismo is usually only two or three points less than the oficial and, unless you're changing large amounts of money, it's often worth living with this lower rate to avoid the inconvenience of changing your money in a bank.
