The
citizens of the
ten-million-strong
city of
Rio
de Janeiro
call it the
Cidade
Marvilhosa -
and there can't
be much argument
about that. Rio
sits on the
southern shore
of a landlocked
harbour within
the magnificent
natural setting
of Guanabara
Bay. Extending
for twenty
kilometres along
an alluvial
strip, between
an azure sea and
jungle-clad
mountains, the
city's streets
and buildings
have been
moulded around
the foothills of
the mountain
range which
provides its
backdrop, while
out in the bay
there are
innumerable
rocky islands
fringed with
white sand. The
panoramic view
over Rio is
breathtaking,
and even the
concrete
skyscrapers
which dominate
the city's
skyline add to
the attraction.
Although
riven by
inequality, Rio
de Janeiro has
great style. Its
international
renown is
bolstered by a
series of
symbols that
rank as some of
the greatest
landmarks in the
world, the
Corcovado ("hunchback")
mountain
supporting the
great statue of
Christ the
Redeemer; the
rounded incline
of the Sugar
Loaf
mountain,
standing at the
entrance to the
bay; and the
famous sweep of
Copacabana
beach ,
probably the
most notable
length of sand
on the planet.
It's a setting
enhanced by the
annual, frenetic
sensuality of
Carnaval ,
an explosive
celebration
which - for many
people - sums up
Rio and her
citizens, the
cariocas .
The major
downside in a
city given over
to conspicuous
consumption is
the rapacious
development
which is
engulfing Rio de
Janeiro. As the
rural poor,
escaping drought
and poverty in
other regions of
Brazil, flock to
swell Rio's
population, the
city is being
squeezed like a
toothpaste tube
between
mountains and
sea, pushing its
human contents
out along the
coast in either
direction. The
city's rich
architectural
heritage is
being whittled
away and, if the
present form of
economic
development is
sustained, the
natural
environment will
eventually be
destroyed, too.
It's a process
unwittingly
hastened by
Rio's citizens
who look forward
optimistically
to the future,
most with the
hope of relief
from poverty,
some with an eye
to the main
chance and
greater wealth.
The state
of Rio de
Janeiro ,
surrounding the
city, is a
fairly recent
phenomenon,
established in
1975 as a result
of the
amalgamation of
Guanabara State
and Rio city.
Fairly small by
Brazilian
standards, the
state is both
beautiful and
accessible, with
easy trips
either east
along the
Costa do Sol
or west along
the Costa
Verde ,
taking in
unspoilt beaches,
washed by a
relatively
unpolluted ocean.
Inland
routes make a
welcome change
from the sands,
especially the
trip to
Petrópolis ,
the nineteenth-century
mountain retreat
of Rio's rich.
The best time
to visit both
city and state,
as least as far
as the
climate goes,
is between May
and August, when
the region is
cooled by trade
winds and the
temperature
remains at
around 22-32°C.
Between December
and March, the
rainy season,
it's more humid,
the temperature
more like 40°C;
but even then
it's never as
oppressive as it
is in the North
of Brazil.
Rio de
Janeiro state
It's easy to get out of Rio city, something you'll probably want to do
at some stage
during your
stay. There are
good bus
services to all
the places
mentioned below,
while the
easiest trips
are by ferry
just over the
bay to the
Ilha de Paquetá
- a car-free
zone popular
with locals - or
to Niterói
, whose Museu de
Arte
Contemporânea
has become an
essential sight
for visitors to
Rio. After that,
the choice is a
simple one:
either head east
along the
Costa do Sol
to Cabo Frio and
Búzios, or west
along the
Costa Verde
to Ilha Grande
and Parati; both
coasts offer
endless good
beaches and
little holiday
towns, developed
to varying
degrees. Or
strike off
inland to
Petrópolis and
Teresópolis,
where the
mountainous
interior
provides a
welcome, cool
relief from the
frenetic goings-on
back in Rio.
If you
planning on
renting a car
, this is as
good a state as
any to brave the
traffic: the
coasts are an
easy drive from
the city and
stopping off at
more remote
beaches is easy,
while your own
wheels would let
you get to grips
with the
extraordinary
scenery up in
the mountains.
